What is the difference between 'cut glass' and 'pressed glass'?

Most people understand the difference between 'hand-blown glass' and 'molded glass' as hand-blown glass is shaped and molded while it is molten red-hot using special tools and techniques. Molded glass is poured into a mold while still molten and allowed to cool into the shape of the container.

Hand-blowing results in glass with a smooth finish on the surface. Then another technique known as 'cold-working' is performed using various shapes of motorized stone wheels to 'cut' patterns into the glass, and wood polishing wheels to bring back the smooth luster. The procedure is lengthy and delicate, but produces the crisp, sharp detail for intricate patterns.

Molded glass has patterns cut directly into the containers used for the molten glass. The hot glass is forced or 'pressed' into the molds . Once cooled, the individual pieces are removed, and then also polished. This procedure is used for mass-producing larger quantities, and may not have the same detail as cut glass.

How does 'lead crystal' differ from glass?

In addition to the very specific high-grade silica (sand) used by various manufacturers, lead is also added as a 'softening' ingredient which allows fine, sharp edges to be cut in patterns, and smooth surfaces to be polished to a high gloss. One characteristic of fine lead crystal is its ability to 'refract' light; diffusing it into the 'colors of the rainbow.' Another is the pleasant tone it emits when lightly tapped, or in the case of stemware, the 'ringing' created by rubbing a damp finger around the lip of the container.

What is hand-polished crystal? Acid-polished crystal?

Hand-polishing is the lengthy process of holding lead crystal against a rotating wood wheel until the surface is uniformly smooth and highly glossy. Acid polishing is a process used in mass crystal production which attempts to achieve the same smooth, glossy results by washing rough glass or crystal surfaces with an acid solution.

How does antique 'Restoration' compare to 'Conservation'?

The process of 'restoration' attempts to reverse the ravages of time and use to bring an article back to the state it was in when 'brand new.' In the case of lighting fixtures, that may include refinishing, re-plating, rewiring, and replacement of components.

Additional Tips on Self Maintenance:

Recipe for Maintaining & Preserving Fine Lighting

A chandelier is an investment and if properly preserved, will be cherished for generations. To maintain the beauty of a chandelier, it is important that it be cared for with routine maintenance and cleaning. A professional cleaning is recommended at least once a year with upkeep practiced monthly by the homeowner.

The crystal and precious metal finishes used to fabricate fine lighting are delicate and can be easily damaged by the use of improper cleaning products and techniques.

Here is a recipe for you to follow for the tender, loving care of your fine lighting fixture between professional cleanings.

Ingredients:

• 2 Buckets

• Moderately Hot Water

• 1 Cup of White Vinegar

• A Blanket or Quilt

• Plenty of White Towels

• Lint Free Cloths

  Preparation

1. Before cleaning a fixture, be sure to turn off the power switch. This reduces the possibility of electrical shock and contact with hot light bulbs. There is usually no need to throw circuit breakers since it may be necessary to plug in auxiliary lighting to further illuminate the work area.

2. Remove all furniture in the work area immediately around and below the chandelier. Place padded quilt(s) or blanket(s) on the floor to cushion the possible fall of tools or delicate chandelier components. For this reason, work as closely to the floor as possible.

   Cleaning
   Avoid rotating the chandelier during cleaning. It must remain stationary

1. Before cleaning, check to see that the crystal or glass chandelier components are securely attached to the fixture. If not, carefully remove them and place them on a soft towel away from the work area.

2. Fill two (2) buckets with moderately hot water (Tip: differentiate the buckets so you can tell them apart.) Add one (1) cup of white vinegar per gallon of water to one of the buckets (Do not use ammonia; it will corrode the pins) This will be the "wash bucket." The other will be used as a "rinse bucket."

3. Carefully submerge each component in the wash bucket and rub vigorously. Immediately following, dip the component in the rinse bucket. Afterwards, place the component on a clean towel to dry.

4. If you are cleaning the components while they are attached to the fixture, immerse a small, lint-free cloth in the wash bucket, and use it to wipe the component parts. Be sure to rinse the cloth frequently in the rinse bucket to remove accumulated dirt.

5. Never use cleaning products on metal unless specifically recommended by a trusted source (this includes vinegar, which is an acid). Most metal
   surfaces have a protective coating of clear lacquer to preserve the original
   finish. Use of certain chemicals will wear away the coating causing the color to change. As a rule, only use warm water.

6. As each component is placed back on the fixture, wipe it down with a clean, lint-free cloth to prevent spotting.

Tips on Dust Removal

Most air-born dust can be removed by simply "feather dusting." If dust particles remain, wipe with a damp, lint-free cloth. This should keep your chandelier bright and beautiful until it’s time for your next professional cleaning